![]() ![]() ![]() So for example if there is orange in your hair, you are at level 5 Light Brown. If you have lengths which have been previously bleached or colored, you can use the right side instead. Use the left side of the chart below to figure out what level your natural hair color (virgin hair) is on a scale of 1-10. Your aim is to give a number to your current hair color level. So How do I Know Which Developer Strength I Should Use? First, refer to the hair color chart below to figure out where your client's hair is currently. We don't recommend you do this when using Ugly Duckling bleaches, as they have been formulated to lift very well with 20 and 30 Vol developer strength only. Sometimes stylists want to use this with hair bleach in order to get their clients very very blonde - for example, to lift it by 7 or 8 levels. It has extremely strong lifting power, but because it opens up the hair cuticle so much, it can damage the hair cuticle unnecessarily. Hair here processes extremely fast and you should not use a stronger developer strength here.ģ0 Volume Developer, containing 9% hydrogen peroxide is the one to use when you are using high lift color or bleach on the lengths and you are going for lifts of 3 levels and more.Ĥ0 Volume Developer, containing 12% hydrogen peroxide, should only be used when faced with truly stubborn hair situations and that too on the lengths only - never ever on the scalp. We also recommend that you use 20 Vol when doing bleach applications near the root area or scalp. We also recommend that you use this for blonde toning applications as well as for grey hair coverage. Ugly Duckling recommends that you use this strength for most permanent color applications involving 1-3 levels lift. It will lift the hair by one or two levels, allowing color or bleach to penetrate in and do its work. The most commonly used strengths are as follows:ġ0 Volume Developer, containing 3% hydrogen peroxide is used for no-lift hair color, tone-on-tone and tone-down applications.Ģ0 Volume Developer, containing 6% hydrogen peroxide is the developer strength the most widely used by colorists in salons. The higher the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the more "lift" you are going to get with your developer. What are the commonly used Developer Strengths? The developer strength refers to the oxidizing potential of the developer, or how much hydrogen peroxide it contains. Hair developer is typically formulated in different strengths, from 5 Vol and 7 Vol all the way to 40 Vol. It helps the color or bleach open up the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mix to penetrate the hair shaft. Hair Developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated inside a cream base in order to make it more cosmetic and gentle for the hair and the scalp.ĭeveloper activates the hair color and bleach. Use mixing bowls or a weighing scale for best results.However, we would suggest if you are new to coloring that you do not pour by sight.Our colorist, Elona Taki, is an experienced colorist and she is pouring in her developer by sight.Both mixes are in line with what we at Ugly Duckling Color recommend: 1:2 for the bleach and 1:1 for the color.Watch this video to the end: you will see both a bleach mix (Brilliant Blonde blue bleach) as well as a color mix (10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde).This is a 2 step technique: bleach on the regrowth followed by a blonde color application.HOW TO MIX BLEACH & COLOR WITH DEVELOPER - WATCH VIDEO: The recommended mix for liquid toners (Blondify) is 1+1. Use 7, 10 or 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling liquid ammonia-free toners according to lift required. Use 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling cream toners and high lift colors (anything beginning with 100). The recommended mix for our bleaches 1+2 The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling cream and liquid toners, & with high lift colors It is not required, as our bleaches lift very fast. Use 30 Vol for any lift higher than 3 levels lift.ĭo not use 40 Vol with Ugly Duckling bleaches. Use 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there because of the heat from the scalp) The recommended mix for our hair color is 1+1 The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling bleaches Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Bullet-Point Summary - Getting your Developer Use Right The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling colors Choosing the Right Developer Strength & Getting the Mix Right Are Really Important For the Final Color Result.
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